Crown Inn, The

A sixteenth century freehold, family run, thatched Inn situated overlooking the village green in probably the most beautiful village in Cambridgeshire. The bar, with its beamed ceiling and inglenook fireplace, has provided a warm and welcoming atmosphere for locals and visitors alike for many centuries.

Not far away is the River Nene, reputedly the source of inspiration for that all-time best seller, Wind in the Willows. The whole surrounding area is sheer old England and a walk down to Elton Mill and Lock make a good prelude to lunch or after dinner on velvet summer evenings.

In January 2008 Rosalind Lamb completed an extensive but sympathetic renovation programme. Those who knew The Crown of old will be delighted to hear that the great inglenook fireplace and oak beamed ceilings are alive and well. The restaurant and bar have been refurbished in traditional country style, and four luxury en suite bedrooms have been created, two under the impressive thatched roof and two in the courtyard.

A string of distinguished links includes the Michelin Red Guide 2007, Michelin Eating Out in Pubs 2007, 2008 and Alistair Sawday's Special Places to Stay 2007.

Two dining areas can seat up to 56, with 40 in The Orangery and 16 in The Snug. In summer the old chestnut tree provides ample shade to those who enjoy their food al fresco.

Chef proprietor Marcus Lamb produces menus that are loyal to Britain, and most of his suppliers are local. They include Cambridge Smokery, Grasmere Pork farm, and Normans of Oundle, who supply vegetables, fruit and flowers. Smiths of Oundle are responsible for the excellent cheeses, and fresh fish is from the not so distant North Sea, via Taylors Seafoods.

The à la carte menu is the principal working menu and covers lunch and dinner. Starters of chicken liver and brandy parfait with home made chutney and toasts, or a plate of Cambridge Smokery salmon with cream cheese, cucumber, mint and toast make regular appearances on the menu.

A beef and ale pie with carrots and mushrooms is well topped with melt in the mouth puff pastry. From nearby woods, that I know only too well, is culled the venison, a saddle of which is served with sauté of potato, baby poached pear, braised red cabbage and red currant sauce. For those who like their steaks the grilled heart of rump with béarnaise sauce will set the juices running, and onion rings, roast tomato and chunky chips complete the enjoyment.

The Elton Swan provides a dessert that is hard to resist; swan shaped profiteroles stuffed with vanilla ice cream, swimming on a mill pond of dark chocolate sauce. A fine cheeseboard is supported by some decent port, and together these twin indulgences make that walk to the Mill almost obligatory.

In the bar six real ale pumps dispense Cask Marque accredited beers, including Golden Crown Bitter, to keep the discerning drinker happy and guest beers could yield Timothy Taylor Landlord, Exmoor Gold and Caledonian Deuchars. All wines are supplied by Corney and Barrow, a name that guarantees reliability.

Weekends are busy at The Crown with so many attractions in the locality. Booking is strongly recommended for dinner on Saturday, and for Sunday lunch which is taken very seriously and offers tremendous value.

Details of special events nights, the splendid new accommodation, and menu changes with the seasons can be viewed in more detail on The Crown's attractive Website.