Crown, The

The Crown has the advantage of belonging to one of the small, but most convincing pub groups in Britain. Started in 1995, Geronimo Inns are in a class of their own, with high standards and a lively sense of the wellbeing of their customers. Described as being "a cool and kitsch pub" The Crown team is led by Tanya Stafford who believes in working from the front, ably supported by Head Chef Jason Reeves. It is a cheerful, well lit pub, and in the evening becomes the centre of both the community and those who will travel to find a decent meal.

Upstairs are three interconnecting rooms, each taking about 20, with a balcony view over the length of Victoria Park, ideal for private parties, conferences with full facilities available. A private bar and dedicated staff are there when required.

Lunch at The Crown is served from 12 - 3pm with dishes amongst which I defy anyone not to find themselves spoilt for choice. Amongst the starter style dishes are carrot and ginger soup, halloumi, strawberries, balsamic and Parma ham salad, or devilled lambs kidneys on toast. For a tenner you can find a generous plate of mussels in white wine and garlic cream in front of you, add two and a half GBP and you have calves liver, mash, pancetta, beetroot and sage butter.

Jude's ice cream pots, with strawberry tease, blackcurrant fool, chunky choc and very vanilla provide a cast of some talent, and an orange pannacotta and berries provides a delightful alternative to those for whom the cheese board of Munster, Fourme Ambert, Stinking Bishop, Elmhurst and Cornish Yarg might be a step too far.

Come the evening, as the old Peter Sellers song said, "the lights come on . . . . changing from red to green, to orange, to . . ."  but at The Crown they can do a bit better than that, with devilled kidneys on toast, bacon eggs cheeks and pea, or potted shrimps with pickles and toast. This is the East End of London so don't be surprised to see jellied eels with mash and parsley sauce as a main course, or a 28 day air hung peppered rib eye steak with chips and aioli. And what a pleasure it is to see at long last chips being taken seriously, in many cases served impeccably cooked, no longer the poor, pallid, grease-ridden things that used to be the norm across the country.

That much underrated fish the mackerel is served marinated with a heritage tomato salad and for the end of the meal consider the options of a lemon tart with Chantilly cream, or pistachio and olive oil cake with fresh strawberries.

A John Clevely selected wine list is generally an exercise in quality with good value, and this one is no exception.