As sure as night follows day so up-market restaurants follow politicians. Look therefore behind the Welsh National Assembly, beneath a set of law offices, to find Cutting Edge, an exercise in the modern, minimalist approach, where politicians of all parties forget their differences as they enjoy a cuisine that follows the classical tradition, with minimal frills.

So such homely dishes as sausage mash and onion gravy compete with grilled seas bass (a great favourite). A number of the words used in this piece imply expense, so it will come as no surprise to you to find that prices are anything but cheap. Never mind, it really is one of those places that are worth a special effort, even if only to sample the New Front of Cardiff Bay.

Delegation of political will from the House of Commons to Cardiff does not, happily for the former, include the wine cellars, so Cutting Edge has filled the breach with a fine selection of bins which certainly do have an international pedigree. House wine is £12.50.