Change comes slowly in the Yorkshire Dales, so when the Dalesman pub announces that it's had a makeover don't get over-excited. In fact what has emerged is quite enough and given the nature of the clientele who convey an impression of "thus far and no further", all seems to have turned out well.

Sedbergh, as well as being home to a notable public school, is also an oasis for passing ramblers, cyclists and others of a travelling disposition. As such the Dalesman Country Inn has an important role to play and meets it with good cheer and efficiency.

You may eat in the bar or the buttery, each has its own menu and you can draw on both menus whichever part of the pub you choose. My recommendation would be to eat in the buttery but take a longish look at the bar menu, which hovers between gastropub and brasserie. Fresh tiger prawns, deep fried and served with sweet chilli sauce, smoked salmon and caper salad, homemade ham hock terrine and excellent homemade soup all feature amongst the starters. All the steaks are Aberdeen Angus, the homemade steak and kidney pie and ditto sausages are the real thing, nor are portions on the diminutive side.

However, their piéce de resistance is almost certainly Sunday lunch which is served from 12 noon until 8 pm, during which time you can eat a meal that will stand you in good stead for the next three days at a price which would just about buy a standard size g & t in places that shall remain nameless.