Located in part of an old mill beside the river with the inevitable weir providing soothing background. Darleys proclaims its cooking as modern British which indeed it is, and not just the cooking. The place is cheery with a menu that pays due respects to vegetarians rather than just a notional nod.

The menu is certainly tempting, with starters such as: spiced fillet of cod on a cassoulet of white beans and chorizo, cauliflower purée, crisp pancetta; veloute of jerusalem artichokes, black trompette mushrooms, white truffle oil; terrine of rabbit and sunblushed tomatoes, potato and grain mustard salad, aged balsamic reduction or crab and sweetcorn risotto, avocado ice cream, shellfish foam.

Principal dishes could include: assiette of English lamb, black pudding, boulangère, puy lentil jus; grilled fillet of halibut, slow confit tomatoes, horseradish creamed potatoes, sauce bloody mary; seared calf's liver and crispy smoked bacon, sable potatoes, caramelised shallots, sage beignet, veal reduction or poached and grilled ballotine of chicken, wilted spinach, langoustine tortellini, velouté of peas.

Whilst anyone without an iron will would find it hard not to select a dessert from coffee parfait, caramelised peach, caramel ice cream; blood orange bavarois, pink grapefruit parfait, tequila sunrise sorbet; hot Toblerone soufflé, baileys ice cream , butterscotch sauce or apple tart, apple peel sorbet.

There is a well-written and discriminating wine list from £14 upwards. Definitely a place for the modern Brit. Lunch presents especially good value with a 2 course meal for only £13.50, the option of an additional £2 for an extra course.