Deep

Fresh from St Katherine's Dock, Christian and Kerstin Sandefeldt have moved up-river to Imperial Wharf, within easy reach of the leafy purlieus of Fulham. Retaining the good bits, of which there were many, from their former restaurant, The Aquarium, it will come as no surprise to see a modern, simple and warm interior, designed by Neil Southard of Fifteen fame. Outside there are two massive terraces which bodes well for the general trend towards al fresco eating, even if the raw tang of diesel is occasionally apparent.

Food-wise the emphasis is Scandinavian, with more than a nod to the thoughtful location of fish, and future stocks. The World Wildlife Federation, no less, advise the Sandefeldts on what fish they should use without depleting the world's stocks any more than they already are.

Scandinavian tartars and cures are much in evidence, but more classical French dishes also feature, and the shellfish platters are highly popular. A sensible wine list, and fiery cocktails are not infrequently overshadowed by the tendency to toss down shots of industrial strength aquavit, giving a whole new meaning to the Northern Lights.

However, even Fulham can be a dull old place at times and a combination of delicious seafood and firewater will prove to be as big a success as it was down-river.