Bought in 1996 by Chris Green, the intervening years have been spent in working up a thoroughly wholesome and agreeable riverside pub into a place which will not only look after the locals but will also attract all-comers for the quality of its cuisine.

Amongst recognizable dishes such treats as seared pigeon breasts with goat's cheese, on a bed of leaves with a raspberry dressing tickle many tastebuds. The breast of duck, roasted in honey and accompanied by pineapple, pac choi, chilli and ginger is delicious.

It does seem a little ungracious to charge the best part of a fiver for what most would regard as adequate vegetables, taking the cost of some main dishes up to £20. However, all is forgiven when you come to the wine list which is both comprehensive and sensibly priced.

House wine at £9.25, with plenty of really decent wines by the glass and a sensible policy with regard to half bottles - they don't have them! But you can have any full bottle opened and pay only for what is consumed.