The first thing you notice about Dinings is that it is not exactly overburdened with space, in fact those of excessively burly stature might have a job settling themselves inside with any degree of comfort.

I don't know what the official number of covers is, but on the assumption that to stand any chance of success you need in excess of 50 covers Dinings doesn't stand a cat in the wringer's chance.

However, one can only admire the spotlessly clean, if tiny, premises together with the quality of the food which is Japanese at its peak. Some of the servings are quite small, but what they may lack in size is more than made up for by the intensity, the fish is transparently fresh and of a variety that not only makes a nod towards sustainable stocks but also makes some welcome introductions. Flavours are well balanced and have clearly been thought through.

There is no doubt that if you are a fan of Japanese food, there are few places in London where it comes much better than Dinings.