Dover House at The Royal Crescent Hotel, The

If it was possible for an urban hotel with country leanings to select its own classic location it is hardly likely that anywhere more handsome than The Royal Crescent at Bath would come into consideration. Furthermore the von Essen Group have also had the good fortune to acquire the two central buildings of this most impressive architectural achievement by John Wood the Younger.

Half close your eyes and for those with a fertile imagination it should be possible to envisage the high society of Beau Brummel's day promenading their way along the Crescent, and it is this spirit of gentility and grace that has been invoked within the hotel.

At Pimpernel's Restaurant, located in the Dower House overlooking the magical gardens that run out behind the hotel's classical façade, the Head Chef, Steven Blake and his accomplished team offer a contemporary British menu, with more than a passing nod to the Mediterranean and the Far East. The result is modern classical dishes presented in tandem with a more traditional cuisine.

So amongst the starters we find traditional oak smoked Scottish salmon with capers, horseradish cream, shallots and freshly carved Caraway bread, or a minestrone of mussels, bacon dumplings and fine noodles, though many find the duo of tuna, cous cous, white radish remoulade and bloody mary with garlic cream completely irresistible.

Steven Blake has been heard to remark that "my personal preferences are less important than what our diners have to say", a comment that all 'celebrity' chefs should have firmly inscribed on their kitchen walls. Free-range chicken, the only sort that anyone in their right minds should even think about eating nowadays, comes roasted in pancetta, with spring vegetables and wilted red chard.

For the lovers of seafood there is tranche of halibut, salsa of crab, clams and chorizo with pea froth, or baked seabass with creamed butter beans, ceps and a Madeira jus. For me, perhaps the beef fillet with creamed leeks and a Cabernet Sauvignon shallot jus.

And so to the finishing straight, with a lavender crème caramel and honeycomb ice cream, an assiette of desserts, or a whole baked Camembert with rosemary and garlic. Connoisseurs of true comfort food will rejoice to see redcurrant baked Alaska with marinated grapefruit and grenadine thyme soup.

For a light lunch try the chargrilled asparagus and Parmesan shavings before a pudding of the truly delicious Royal Crescent fruit salad for a modest £16.

Wine is taken as seriously as any other department at The Royal Crescent and delightful combinations of menu dishes and accompanying wines are offered by the Sommelier and his staff, who will take your knowledge on wines, and food to go with them, in their stride. Requests for advice are dealt with cheerfully and capably.

The Royal Crescent is particularly well equipped when it comes to private dining for as many as 40 or as few as 10. A champagne cruise aboard the Lady Sophina will start the evening in style before going on to the discreet luxury of The Pavilion Conservatory where up to 8 people can dine comfortably.