When Cornwall goes romantic it does not do it by half measures. Driftwood is a place for romance, reflection and rest ably assisted by the Cornish climate, sweeping sands, modern comforts and, of course, a restaurant with views. The daily changing menu treads well the delicate path between local custom and those who come from further afield. Amongst the starters are such quirky dishes as chicken baked in hay, with celery soup and coco beans, a tian of pan-fried skate wings, shredded crab with tomato and avocado, or roast foie gras with beetroot, walnuts and a crisp ginger and port jus.

Amongst the mains, the more conventional will focus on such dishes as rack of pork, a lasagne of braised pork belly with butternut squash and a chilli and apple reduction, or more adventurously the fricassee of pigs' trotters with butter beans and more. Given notice superbly fresh lobster and fruit de mer can be yours.

Puddings embrace a Creole banana brulee with rum and raisin ice cream, or a rhubarb mousse with ginger savarin and orange sauce. Service is entirely positive.