Drones Restaurant

Drones is an extraordinary restaurant, it is a little like a rich old lady, who undergoes periodic face lifts to try to stay looking young, now, after a totally new layout and redecoration by David Collins, the 'in' designer of the moment, done in restful upmarket style, it has re-opened to immediate and huge acclaim.

The inspiration behind this complete transformation is the mercurial Marco Pierre White, and following the current culinary trend it offers an interesting array of long-established dishes in the Anglo-French style, all of them impeccably executed, combined with excellent service. Choices can vary a delicious foie gras with truffles en gelée de madère to aspic of oysters with watercress en gelée de champagne as starters, and grilled calf's liver à la lyonnaise, pomme purée, sauce diable - with the best mashed potato in the world.

Puddings are equally good, with crème caramel Box Tree, the restaurant in Ilkley, Yorkshire where Marco first made his name, and a brilliant crème vanille, poached figs with a red wine syrup, being the absolute stars.

Given that they have succeeded in tempting back the former manager of Drones, with an admirable facility for remembering faces, they have once again become the upmarket neighbourhood restaurant for the Belgravia area, offering higher standards than most, though there is very little choice on the wine list at under £25 a bottle.