Duck's at Kilspindie House

Edinburgh is great, but sometimes the hustle and bustle of a major capital city is not exactly what you're seeking; which is when it makes sense to combine the best of both worlds with the picturesque village of Aberlady overlooking the Firth of Forth as your base, and the urban benefits of Edinburgh twenty miles down the road in case of need. For the golf enthusiast, there are twenty two courses within a fifteen minute drive, most of them links.

Kilspindie House dates from 1638 and the neighbouring school has been added, making a comfortable 26 en-suite bedroom hotel. Each room has its own individual touches and is fitted with wireless internet, freeview TV, direct dial phones, and tea and coffee making facilities.

The restaurant has over the years earned itself some significant awards, amongst which are Winner of the 'Bar Meal' and Runner for the 'Best Fine Dining' at the East Lothian Food Awards 2007. The noted commentator, Alastair Jamieson, remarked, '(Malcolm) Duck has already waved a magic wand, (or at least a drill sergeant's pace stick) over the kitchen'.

The à la carte menu could start with a wild boar burger, accompanied by quails egg, and a celeriac and apple remoulade, or pigeon breast braised puy lentils and red currant jus. An unusual but highly attractive take on surf and turf teams up seared scallops with runny black pudding, braised chicory and pancetta, whilst those in search of something rather bulkier will take a close look at the fillet of mature Buccleuch beef haggis pie, served with green beans and peppercorn and whisky sauce.

Loin of venison with sweet potato dauphinoise, celeriac puree and spinach makes a pleasant combination as a setting for some of the best meat available - why it doesn't have a bigger following is beyond me. Scotland has a close association with some of the coldest and freshest waters in the world which in turn yield superb quality seafood, a thought to bear in mind as you consider the merits of the sea bream fillet mussels, with clams, saffron potatoes, leeks and oyster. Finish on a high note with toffee apple cake roasted pears and crème fraîche.

For such a relatively short menu the choice of tastes and texture is amazingly broad, nor is it very often that you find a bar menu running the à la carte such a close second. Seafood chowder, that classic dish; a Belhaven smoked salmon platter with scrambled egg, beef burger with smoked cheddar, red onion marmalade, salad and chips, the wonderful haggis, neeps and tatties, fish of the day, an omelette Arnold Bennett, or haddock and salmon fishcakes with creamed leeks are all attractively served, popular and incredibly good value

Fresh egg linguine comes with a choice of four sauces, whilst warm chapatti with homemade coleslaw and crisps offers fillers such as prawn, avocado and rocket or smoked cheddar and tomato chutney. This is food brought together to meet the needs of a carefully researched clientele, not forgetting their splendid Sunday lunch, anticipation of which must have comforted many a chilly Sabbath morn at the Kirk.

Wine at Ducks is one of the pleasures of life, and the hand - or nose - of some astute connoisseur would appear to be not far away from the cellar.

Their Website covers their three properties in the area and could be very helpful in deciding where to visit in the surrounding countryside and nearby city.