Duke of Sussex

Another addition to the gastropub scene, but this one perhaps more convincing than some of the others. A convincingly Victorian pub it has been restored to full service in keeping with the times, and the deprived burgers of Chiswick now have somewhere else to add to their abundance of riches.

The menu, too, is a refreshing change from the now familiar parade of dishes selected from the gastropub set-up kit, and such tasty items as faggots, devilled sprats, Andalusian garlic soup with a soft poached egg, or the butter bean, pork and bacon stew that is fabada, as well as brawn and gherkins, and salt cod croquettes.

The wine list refreshingly draws on the Old World and in keeping with that philosophy most of the selection can be purchased by the carafe. Service is notably good. Why is it some can do it, others can't?