It is not every day that the proprietor of an Italian equivalent of a greasy spoon café is informed by English Heritage that the premises are now Grade II-Listed. Opened in 1900, E Pellicci has been satisfying the inner needs of this part of the East End ever since, though Mr Pellicci's comments on hearing of the elevation of his humble premises are not for repetition before the watershed hour.

Pellicci's tables are rarely empty on account of the fact that successive Pelliccis have followed the golden rule; give the customer what he wants, and give it him speedily, handsomely, cheaply, and with quality. As I have not infrequently remarked on this site and elsewhere, if more restaurateurs followed this example we might not have the steady stream of closures and openings that currently plague the industry. Here, the current Mrs Pellicci is a major presence in the kitchen, and is renowned especially for her steak pie, cooked in a suet crust, though the Italian fare of Bolognese, and spinach and ricotta cannelloni are not far behind. Two people can lunch comfortably here for a pair of fivers and, with care, have enough left over for a copy of the Scotsman.