Eagle, The

Once this was a normal hostelry on the fringe of Smithfield, now it is one of the modern gastronomic public houses, with posh food and prices - higher than the normal pub level but still immensely reasonable - to match. Indeed, the whole Clerkenwell area has seen an enormous uplift in recent years, becoming one of the most fashionable places in London, and quite one of the major culinary centres also.

However, this gastro-pub is definitely a cut above the rest. The Eagle has developed a terrific and loyal following since it opened with its simple formula and high quality, gutsy, modern European cooking, definitely to be described as superior fare. The emphasis is on imaginative, well-presented food, served with minimal hanging about. Result? Enormous popularity. Do not allow yourself to be deterred by the décor, which pays scant heed to Home and Garden or whatever.

As so often where value is the keynote, The Eagle is heaving for most of the time. The only trouble is that it is not exactly over large and sometimes you almost have to fight off other eager punters to get a table. They do not accept any bookings, so the only way to be certain of getting in is to arrive there really early.

Fans say that it is certainly worth the trouble and find the whole experience to be terrific fun but others prefer their eating out to be a little less frenetic. Non-smokers can also find that the overwhelming presence of smokers to be a rather off-putting factor.

Short, business-like wine list, by the bottle from £10.50 or the glass with some quite distinguished bottled and draught beers.