Earth and Stars, The

With its fondness for the pioneering path it is perhaps entirely right and proper that Brighton should have this temple dedicated to the organic cause. And believe me it has not been done in half measures either. Starting at the top the restaurant is solar-powered for its hot water and descending to the lower regions uses renewable energy to run everything else. Formerly The Windsor Tavern, it was relaunched in 2001 and seems to be meeting the need well. Virtually everything is organic, beer, food, wine, hemp T-shirts for the staff and, wait for it, cigarettes. Now there's inverted hedonism for you. Having just read of a celebrity chef who said he would gladly sacrifice a few years of his life for a certain taste in prepared food I am in an ambivalent state of mind. I can only suggest you go and give it a try - it really is worth it.