East Beach Cafe

This iconic building by Thomas Heatherwick will one day be a listed building, representing as it does a completely new approach to the relationship between a building and its surroundings.

They aim to serve food that will be remembered for all the best reasons 365 days a year, through the main three meals of the day. Within are 45 seats, backed up by another 80 on the outside decking, and a take-away kiosk for those who prefer eating in the rough.

The evening menu may have starters of potted shrimp, salt and pepper squid with chilli, or a smoked mackerel, beetroot and cress salad, followed by spaghetti with steamed cockles, olive oil and parsley, or grilled sardines with roasted tomatoes and beetroot. There is always a daily fish special.

Well into the traditional with the desserts, and Eton Mess or apricot trifle are both popular. Children's meals offer fish goujons and chips, eggy bread, and fruit jelly with ice cream amongst other dishes.

Also to be found are such nostalgic numbers as hot buttered crumpet with marmite, potted crab and Scotch duck's egg.

A wine list leads with a blanc de blancs from Ditchling in West Sussex, and a selection that includes 6 by the glass drawn from a wide spread of experience. Sophie Murray, one of the team, emphasizes that so long as seaside eateries go on serving what they want people to eat rather than the other way round, people will tend to vote with their feet.

Given the permutation on offer at East Beach the sound of incoming feet should be heard with increasing volume.