For those of you for whom the pangs (no pun intended) of longing for Chinese food whilst sunning yourselves in glorious Cornwall, are overwhelming, there is but one answer - whatever the distance or other trifling inconveniences, set forth for Grampound, having first carefully reserved yourself a berth, for the reputation is great and the tables few. Here amongst the delights of the English Riviera you can indulge your longings. The food is quite superb by almost any standard and you will probably do best on the a la carte. Furthermore, whatever your darkest feelings about Chinese food and fine wine, forget them for one evening and explore the delights of Mr Lau's wine list. After all the chances are you are on holiday and can afford to leave your prejudices at home, as well as your plastic balance.