Ebury, The

The rise of the gastropub has often been more about quantity than quality. While there are some fine establishments, rather too many former hostelries seem to think that by shunning the Walkers in favour of a bowl of pistachios, switching the malt vinegar for balsamic and filling a room with stripped pine furniture means they can now charge £9 for very average bangers and mash.

That's not a complaint one can level at The Ebury though. While the conversion hasn't left much of a pub per se - the drinking area is far too stylish to be dismissed in that way - it has put considerable emphasis on the "gastro" element. The result is a very impressive venue serving equally impressive food.

The setting befits the Sloane Square "borders" location. It's cool and stylish with a flawless use of natural light to give an impression of considerable space. The whole package is undeniably smart and trendy but it's also unpretentious and very comfortable, a feeling bolstered by the simple menu and a good value, well appointed wine list.

A faultless soft poaches egg with oyster mushrooms and brioche, and pheasant confit raviolo with celeriac puree show the kitchen in good light, as do the sautéed gilhead bream with mashed potatoes, leek fondue and chive veloute Other highlight are crisp fillet of Pollack with a ragout of mussels and new potatoes and the3 exceptional terrine with its earthy flavours.

Puddings raise the stakes again, particularly the lavender pannacotta with passion fruit sorbet which surely ranks amongst the best desserts in the capital. With charming service and such good, honest fare, it's not hard to see The Ebury's appeal. Booking - particularly if you want Sunday lunch - is definitely advisable.