Efes is a great find in a varsity city not overburdened with gourmet delight, and the fact that it has just completed eight year' successful trading speaks for itself. Not that the cuisine is anything other than straightforward, down-to-the-kasbah Turkish, but that in itself is something for which to be grateful.

On arrival a dish of quality olives and pickled chillies is offered, a pleasant touch that immediately sets the right note. Most of the main courses are kebab in orientation and the novelty of having them char-grilled in front of you is a never-ending source of fascination. When it reaches your plate the quality of the meat, unless you like eating it dripping blood, is superb, with firm flavours and perhaps accompanied by a particularly good, soft rice and vegetables.

All in all it's a bit like having an indoor barbecue with all the ugly parts, like the carbon overlay, the insects and the sudden odd jolly bracing, north-wind-driven downpour removed and replaced with charming staff, linen napery, warmth and flowers not braced against the storm. Efes, not altogether surprisingly, is a wow with the locals and if I was them I would not be in a hurry to share it, but I hope you will.