Continuing the saga of the deli-that-has-everything-you-ever-wanted-cooking-wise, and oh yes, happens to have five little tables round the back where we may be able to run something up for you, a technique applied increasingly and with varying degrees of expertise, Effings is one of the more successful examples. Granted that some of the worthy burghers of Totnes have been observed exercising their eyebrows at the prices but as their Yorkshire kinsmen would tell them, 'you don't get owt for nowt'.

And this is no mere extension of what's on the deli shelves, it is accomplished cooking in which the likes of flaked brill in a saffron jelly with caviar, and coq au vin with confit new potatoes make regular appearances on the short but elegant menu. Such places as Effings should be given every encouragement in an increasingly regimented, predictable and shallow world, particularly from the good people of Totnes - quality invariably costs.