Embankment is one of Bedford's most imposing and enduring landmarks, enjoying a prominent vantage point on the River Great Ouse and looking out onto the hustle and bustle of life on the river. This late Victorian inn has been given a complete make-over and resumed its rightful place in the Bedfordshire social scene.

Since Andrew Coath - British Institute of Innkeeping's Licensee of the Year in 2007 and manager of two other respected pubs in the area, The Black Horse in Woburn and The Swan at Salford near Milton Keynes - moved in last May, some subtle and not-so-subtle changes have been taking place at the pub, culminating in The Embankment's re-opening in March 2009.

The transformation has been dramatic. Working with landlord, local brewer Charles Wells, Andrew and his team have restored and redecorated all of the pub's Victorian features using a colour scheme that nods to the building's Arts & Crafts character. Antique gilt-framed mirrors, deep-buttoned seating in British Racing Green and rich silk lampshades have given the pub back its Victorian grandeur whilst keeping the atmosphere friendly and hospitable, whether you are in for a pint of Bombardier brewed locally in Bedford or a celebration dinner in the pub's glamorous private dining room.

A generous bar serving Charles Wells's finest brews greets you on arrival, offering you plenty of places to perch and enjoy the view. Warm weather encourages a wander outside or perhaps to eat and drink al fresco on the riverside terrace.

Perhaps the biggest change, though, is the food. With Head Chef, Neil Simons, at the helm, The Embankment kitchen is now creating dishes of well prepared and freshly cooked seasonal food with sound quality ingredients such as 28-day dry-aged Casterbridge côte de boeuf beef, excellent sausages, free-range chicken and pork and seasonal vegetables.

A range of starters and light mains could include chicken liver parfait with lambs lettuce and chutney, and Caesar salad, roast free-range chicken, crispy bacon and anchovies. Lurking amongst the main courses you might find 28 day dry-aged Casterbridge 8oz rump cap steak with chips, grilled field mushroom, watercress salad and horseradish crème fraîche, or sea bass fillets with summer vegetable slaw and carrot and ginger dressing. Those who like some routine in their lives can tuck into a roast of the day with a different joint for every day of the week teamed with the special seasonal vegetable dish of the day - free-range leg of pork on Tuesdays and the 28 day dry-aged Casterbridge roast beef on Mondays and Thursdays for instance.

The deli board comes in five different guises ? veggie, cold cuts, cheese, fish and favourites like smoked breaded brie, chunky tomato houmous, rare roast beef and piccalilli. It's good for sharing or if you're just peckish yourself.

The express menu served between noon and 6 pm covers some very satisfying bases, including that day's roast, an 8oz coarse Casterbridge beef burger with cheddar cheese, coleslaw, chips and baby gherkin salad and, home-made soup of the day. The beauty of the Embankment menu is that you can pick and choose to build the meal you want, be it feast or snack, rounding off with a delectable dessert like limoncello pannacotta and marinated strawberries or a summer fruit trifle.

Whilst eating is most certainly taken seriously, a pub wouldn't be a pub without great drinks. The wine list, described in the press as 'uncluttered yet imaginative', offers an excellent example of the year's fashionable fizz, a Prosecco from Porte Leona at £4.75 a glass as well as classy Gavi di Gavi and quality New World whites such as Chenin Blanc, more usually seen in top London restaurants, but served here at prices so reasonable they'd make a snooty sommelier shudder! Around a dozen or so are served by the glass and 500ml carafes fortify that brasserie feel with conviction.

As for real ale, it couldn't be more local if it tried, with well-kept Bombardier and Eagle IPA brewed less than a mile away at Charles Wells's brewery, and a selection of continental lagers on tap and in bottle to boot.

If you find you can't tear yourself away, The Embankment also has twenty luxurious cosy en-suite rooms - some with attractive views over the river and all with the little comfortable touches you'd find at home: piles of pillows to sink into, great linen on the quality beds, powerful showers, antique mirrors and sumptuous velvet throws. Make sure you tuck into an Embankment breakfast before you check out; it features traditional English cooked breakfast with eggs as you like them as well as scrambled eggs and smoked salmon, or something lighter if a large lunch is looming.

The revival of the Embankment has brought to Bedford what it has long needed - a focal point for those who like to eat and drink in comfort and style in an elegant destination. Check on their Website for seasonal menus, news and events.

The revival of the Embankment has brought to Bedford what it has long needed - a focal point for those who like to eat and drink in comfort and style in an elegant destination. Check on their Website for seasonal menus, news and events.