English's of Brighton

Think of Brighton, and English's springs to mind, particularly if seafood is your weakness; since 1945 the Leigh-Jones family have been dispensing piscatorial delights in a bewildering range of manifestations, in the process becoming something of a legend in their time. It is a far cry from the three fisherman's cottages of some 400 years ago to the present much-loved restaurant, established by the Braziers during the last century.

The three series of murals painted in 1996 by two local art students, Catarina Perestrello and Mark Davies feature Edwardian dinner scenes in the Spode Room. The Wedgwood Room has after dinner pleasures, and the Minton commemorates the handbag scene from 'The Importance of Being Ernest', with none other than the author himself casting a sardonic eye over proceedings.

Of course, every fine restaurant, and let it be said, some not so fine, have their Chef-Leader and English's has Peter Bohannon, an experienced chef with a family heritage in the fish business. Peter grew up in his father's fishing business, gaining an astounding knowledge of the fruits of the sea before learning the artisan skills of cooking; a perfect combination for a restaurant of English's culture and custom.

The essence of the cuisine here is taking high quality produce, locally sourced where possible and treating it kindly and sympathetically, whilst retaining a theme of the traditional.  Many might be daunted by the challenge of a place like English's, but not Peter, for whom public demand is the voice of reason.

The result is a menu that, whilst changing to suit the whim and the market, seldom if ever fails to please, summarised perhaps by the delightful story of the Cabinet Minister who arrived one evening, and asked if he was the only member of the Cabinet not present. It is easy to understand that ingredients are, whenever possible - and it generally is - sourced locally. Oysters are particularly popular, though this is but the tip of the slab. English's chowder vies with lobster bisque to provide a firm foundation, but wait, this is only the beginning as, with increasing delight, the eye roams over homemade potted shrimps, taramasalata, and home cured gravadlax.

Main courses run the whole breadth of tradition; this is not a place for those who aspire to enjoy liquorice with their sea trout. Dover sole come on or off the bone, the dressed crab must surely have been culled from some semi-magical source where size and quality go claw in claw. Peter and his team know fully well that seafood is one of the kindest forms of food, requiring minimal attention and richly repaying subtlety combined with common sense.

As everyone moves on to the common ground of puddings, the tried and proven favourites appear again, with spotted dick served in a pool of sauce anglaise, but a rich chocolate mousse with chantilly cream tops the bill.

The wine list is more than equal to the task and the comment that it 'has gained seniority and breadth like a lot of mature people and is the better for it', is right on the button. Someone has spent a good deal of time and effort sourcing, tasting and compiling a carefully chosen mix of wines, champagnes, ports, dessert wines and half bottles. You also cannot fail to be impressed with the selection available by the glass, which offers variety and flexibility to your choice.

Whether you choose to sit 'sur le terroir', at the famous oyster bar or in one of the Edwardian plush dining rooms you will experience a traditional and expertly executed service which has all but disappeared in the modern wave of the branded restaurants. Whether it's due to the notable volumes of regular guests or the confidence and surety which breezes throughout this establishment, there is a genuine and relaxed friendliness in the air.  The stereotypical pretentious nature synonymous with celebrated restaurants certainly does not exist here.

It's hard to say anything more about this restaurant so just go there, sit outside on a good day and enjoy superb seafood with the salty breeze off the Channel as a sort of celestial dressing; on velvety evenings when there is a hint of chill around at dusk, nestle into the plush red velvet and gold décor for an evening of unbridled pleasure. Do note that their menu and wine prices are fully inclusive of service, something not always found in English restaurants.

For vastly more information about English's, a unique Brighton institution, their private dining and full menus, do visit their Website.