English's of Brighton

Think of Brighton, and English's springs to mind, particularly if seafood is your forte; since 1945 the Leigh-Jones family have been dispensing piscatorial delights in a bewildering range of manifestations, in the process becoming something of a legend in their time. It is a far cry from the three fisherman's cottages of some 400 years ago to the present much-loved restaurant, established by the Braziers during the last century.

How would they have reacted, I wonder, to the three series of murals painted in 1996 by two local art students, Catarina Perestrello and Mark Davies? In the Spode Room Edwardian dinner scenes feature, as might be expected, strongly. The Wedgwood Room has after dinner pleasures, and the Minton commemorates the handbag scene from 'The Importance of Being Ernest', with none other than the author himself casting a sardonic eye over proceedings.

Of course, every fine restaurant, and let it be said, some not so fine, have their Chef-Leader and English's has Trish Goodwin, straight from her native Galway via the notable Chestnut Restaurant of that County. Many might be daunted by the challenge of a place like English's, but not Trish, for whom public demand is the voice of reason. A lesson here perhaps for some of the celebrities in her profession?

The result is a menu that, whilst changing to suit the whim and the market, seldom if ever fails to please, summarised perhaps by the delightful story of the Cabinet Minister who arrived one evening, and asked if he was the only member of the Cabinet not present.

It is easy to understand that ingredients are, whenever possible - and it generally is - sourced locally. Oysters are particularly popular, though this is but the tip of the slab. English's chowder vies with lobster bisque to provide a firm foundation, but wait, this is only the beginning as, with increasing delight the eye roams over jellied eels, tail-on prawns in a crispy potato basket and caramelised freshwater prawns and ginger.

Main courses run the whole breadth of tradition; this is not a place for those who aspire to enjoy liquorice with their sea trout. Dover soles come on or off the bone, the dressed crab must surely have been culled from some semi-magical source where size and quality go claw in claw. Trish and her team know full well that seafood is one of the kindest forms of food, requiring minimal attention and repaying richly subtlety combined with common sense.

As everyone moves on to the common ground of puddings, the tried and proven favourites appear again, with pear tatin, meringue nests with praline cream and amaretto sauce, but for my choice a port and brandy flavoured strawberry mousse tops the bill.

However, confronted with all this munificence of the sea the final point of my capitulation to the splendour of English's came right at the end with the knowledge that I had found an outpost of The Savoury Club. Yes, there they were, angels on horseback, curried prawns (just brilliant) and Welsh rarebit, with a selection of three English cheeses for those in any difficulty of choice.

The wine list? Let me assure you it is more than equal to the task and the comment that it 'has gained seniority and breadth like a lot of mature people and is the better for it', is right on the button.

What more can one say? Just go there, sit outside on a good day and enjoy superb seafood with the salty breeze off the Channel as a sort of celestial dressing; on velvety evenings when there is a hint of chill around at dusk, nestle into the plush red velvet and gold décor for an evening of unbridled pleasure.

Do note that their menu and wine prices are fully inclusive of service, something rare to find in restaurants in England.

For vastly more information about English's, a unique Brighton institution, their private dining and full menus, do visit their Website.