Enterkine House

Set in the handsome rolling countryside east of Ayr before it changes into grim coal country the Enterkine is a haven of country house style and aspirations, and the dress code tends to underline this. (No dinner without a jacket and tie, and the same preferably for lunch). The menu, which is well populated by dishes using the local ingredients, covers a good range and could include a Stornoway black pudding salad with pancetta, mushrooms, a poached egg with vinaigrette, or a smoked halibut rarebit with tomato salad and mustard dressing.

The main courses tend to be overshadowed by the aristocratic presence of the Buccleuch beef fillet steak, one of the great treats of our time, the only problem with which being that it tends to set a standard that others find hard to follow. The nearby presence of the sea reminds of the fine fishing to be had in the seas off the West Coast, leading to consideration of the parma ham wrapped monkfish, served with wilted rocket, chorizo, pimento and balsamic onion. Puddings come in a variety of stimulating surprises amongst which are chocolate and orange pots with chocolate chip ice cream or iced apple crumble with vanilla parfait and toffee sauce. Coffee arrives with homemade petits fours.

A wine list of truly noble quality reflects the skills and taste of Ian Cumming, now closely associated with Invergarity Vaults. House wines start at £18.95 and there are some wonderful treats awaiting those with a rather larger budget.