Built at vast expense, Esperante mirrors well the earthy tones of a restaurant that links itself to the Mediterranean experience and cuisine. The restaurant walls are a sturdy Tuscan red, the subdued lighting is just right and the overall warmth dispels even the harshest day that St Andrews can produce. Under Head Chef Scott Dougall nothing is left to chance and an antipasta of lightly smoked lobster with seared monkfish in lemon grass and coriander essence could precede an open lasagne of rabbit, shitake mushrooms and spinach with truffle juice. From there it is but a logical step to fillet of veal with sweetbreads and wild mushroom risotto gratin, or perhaps the loin venison with pomme Anna, creamed Savoy cabbage and parsnip puree. For dessert try the memorable Seville marmalade tart with blood orange sorbet. A pretty sensuous wine list maintains the pace.

To advance a menu of this complexity in Scotland a few years ago would have been a pretty rare experience. But times change, for the best sometimes and backed with the quality of service Esperante has to be one of the most challenging dining experiences north of the Border.