Establishment, The

A real touch of retro here, with a design that owes a good deal to the '70s Sweeney type shows and gangster flicks. The food is very much in keeping. Naturally there is brunch, headed by Busters Plantation bacon butty, or if you get up that late why not wheel in for a Sunday roast, with a choice of beef, lamb or pork. By the way that's Buster the Dog, not the other one.

What do the fraternity enjoy for dinner? A pickled beef salad for starters, or braised rabbit with peas and Jerusalem artichoke puree, followed by a hotpot of monkfish and Shetland Isle mussels with hand cut chips, or a good fillet steak with some more of those chips and green peppercorn sauce would do justice to the situation.

Desserts may be for wimps but nobody will notice a plate of ginger cake with caramel mousse and coconut sorbet. A wine list with serious numbers by the glass completes the pleasure before going out, even if only in imagination, to nab a villain or two. Or be nabbed.