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This small but modern city in the Netherlands has its place in history as the venue for the Battle of Zutphen, memorable for the fact that Sir Philip Sidney, renowned poet of the Elizabethan Age, died of the mortal wound he suffered there. However, Zutphen has a few other claims to fame, notable among them being the St. Walburgis church, a Gothic monument that dates back to the twelfth century. The Restaurant 't Schulten Hues, neighbour to this historic building, is a worthy contender among the restaurants which  add to the allure of this quaint and charming city.

Located in a listed building that goes back to 1881, and built in a style reminiscent of the Neo Renaissance, this restaurant adopts French cuisine with flair and turns out a variety of inspiring and well presented dishes. The brooding elements of the architecture, that have mostly been retained, lend a touch of mystery, while the terrace with its herb garden and view of nearby orchards is a delightful spot for al fresco dining.

Owner and Chef Peter Gast brings his passion and range of experiences to the kitchen and patrons get a taste of his expertise with the amuse bouche of green pepper and olive pastilles or the beetroot and pistachio bonbon. Oyster lovers will rejoice as they could choose from different preparations - in jus of blood orange, olive and almond foam coffee, or champagne vinegar and crème of cured ham - for starters. These perfectly balanced morsels are well conceived and deliver without fail; other options include crabs rolled in pumpkin with yoghurt and a sesame and ginger mousse.

The French pride themselves on their poisson and at Schulten Hues, you could sample the sole fillets with cream of potato or the unusual combination of pike perch with kale. Shrimps and snails, other favourites, also make their presence felt on the menu, while duck served with cream of artichoke, marinated apple, celeriac and a jus with sherry is a most interesting and fitting main course.

For dessert, try the passion fruit with yoghurt and let the intense and sweet flavours mingle favourably. French wines dominate the list and there is one to complement every stage of the meal. Whether you are a visitor to Zutphen or even a local, a meal at Schulten Hues is something that should not be overlooked. As  Chef Peter Gast says, 'Cooking is theatre' for him, so don't lose the opportunity to take part in the drama that he gently builds up with every gastronomic delight.