In what is rapidly becoming the Espana of Manchester, Evuna lends distinction and flavours that are well worth any detour you might have to make. The restaurant is part of a unit that comprises a very classy deli and a wine shop that certainly should not be missed. The brains behind it all belong to Frances Dowler and Manuel Evuna, and believe me they do not leave much to chance. In the wine shop alone there are rumoured to be bottles valued on today's market in the region of £1500.

The formula is very simple. You can have large plates or small plates, and that is about the only limitation. You can order off-menu, and if they don't have it they will tell you so and suggest something else. Spanish food is not complicated, made from simple ingredients without fancy sauces or hair-shirt cooking.

For slightly less than £20 you can roam your way through a taster menu, which contains a little bit of everything. There are good meal deals around most of the time and you can lunch here incredibly cheaply and without making any concessions to quality. To summarise, this is a bench-mark in really good food at prices that will only hurt if you let them, the sort of place that thoroughly deserves to succeed - and will.