Fabio's Ristorante Italiano

Banbury is historically known for the "riding a cock horse" nursery rhyme. Me? Well I remember it for being a convenient stop on the way home to London from Stratford upon Avon in my younger days. Had it possessed then the attractions which it holds now I doubt if I would have reached home at all, since foremost amongst them is Fabio's, an established family owned and run traditional Italian restaurant, a mere few yards from Banbury Cross, built in 1859 to mark a royal wedding and associated inextricably with Banbury cakes.

One of the great benefits of eating Italian is not just the food - it's the entertainment that goes with it, the enthusiastic swirl of the food's arrival at table, the chit chat with the waiters, the occasional burst of opera in a hitherto quiet corner, the often unsolicited advice on menu choices, all done with incredible good humour and no possibility of offence.

Then of course there's the food. At Fabio's the ingredients are sourced locally, and were being long before we started warbling about carbon footprints and food miles. Where most people have three courses the Italians have around five, and we start with aperitivi which could be a campari soda, a bellini, or a glass of sparkling white dry Italian wine to clear the palate.

The Italians are great people with bread and olives, something we'd do well to play around with more. There are the usual elaborate presentations but for real effect try a selection of simple breads, some high grade extra olive oil whilst giving the menu a real going over as the taste buds begin to tingle.

So by the third course we've come to antipasti where clever things have been done with ingredients that entice. Think large mushrooms filled with dolcelatte cheese, pine nuts and sun blush tomato, or butterflied boneless sardines with caper, and perhaps a traditional selection of those peerless Italian cured meats with local cheese and olives.

Pasta and the first course of consequence go together to produce lasagne, ravioli and penne dishes, with linguine marinara for a real treat, at the end of, or with which a salad does not come amiss. Tomato and red onion with balsamic dressing - never fails.

Meat and fish dishes make up the second main course, amongst which expect to find that Prince of spring dishes, lamb cutlets in a red wine, rosemary and garlic sauce, or by way of diversion a veal escalope in grilled pepper, white wine and creamy saffron.

Tradition plays a strong part in the dolci course, where Italian sentiment comes over loud and clear. The cannolo Siciliano takes some resisting - so why bother - just order some. Tiramisu, layers of sponge soaked in coffee and marsala, mascarpone, cream and dusted with chocolate is a splendid way to go. As for Italian cheese, I view it with apprehension only because it shakes my faith in our native Stilton and Lanark Blue.

And it would hardly be Italian if the bambini did not have their own menu with prices as small as their stature and helpings not far behind their Dads. All for £5.95 ? I ask you!

This setting is a wonderful place for a party, wedding, whatever. Even the stiffest group would have their reserve worn down by the bonhomie and excellence of the food. Meanwhile further information can be found on their colourful Website.