In this rather wild part of the Fens it is encouraging to come across somewhere like The Fen House where good taste is well ensconced, even it is only available at dinner on Friday and Saturdays, or other times by arrangement. Booking is essential.

Starters may include delicately cooked chicken livers with Madeira sauce and red grapes nestling in a brioche, grilled goat's cheese on vegetables provencale, before rolled saddle of lamb with onion sauce and Madeira gravy.

Puddings follow the same sort of drift with spiced apple tartlet and Calvados custard a good whacky dish on which to complete. The wine list, starting at just under £14, is some sixty long, a brave effort for a restaurant of limited space and opening. I would think The Fen House comes into its own for parties of like-minded people who want to take off into the wilds and have a thoroughly enjoyable and relaxed evening to themselves.