Fifteen Cornwall

You really have to hand it to Jamie Oliver, he does the business, even if involving himself in controversy does bring him some criticism. Since most of us can guess what he would say to that let's proceed brusquely to the business in hand, which is his latest effort to combine several interests under one banner, often with disadvantaged young people at the core.

Take one attractive Cornish beach, a group of local, mainly youngsters, and Jamie and you have enough promising ingredients to attract a wave of appreciative attention in the West Country.

Cornwall is renowned for the quality of its food ingredients, particularly from the sea that laps a few feet below the newly built restaurant. Breakfast is served for surfers, dog-walkers, or those returning from a good night out via the beach, until 10am. I cannot resist mentioning in this connection the ultimate breakfast sarnie, mounted on a Fifteen bloomer (a bit like a small surf board but much better tasting), with dry cured Black pig bacon, organic hens' eggs, Primrose Herd sausage, grilled field mushrooms and beef tomato. An a la carte menu takes care of lunch, or there is a good value three course set menu.

For genuine foodies the highlight comes in the evening with a magnificent tasting menu, served with the appropriate wines if you so wish. From amongst an interesting range of choices start with the lightest potato gnocchi, Bodinnick Farm lamb ragu, orange and rosemary gremolata, before moving on to Bocaddon Rose Farm veal braised in milk, with crushed new potatoes, Hipse cabbage and black olive salsa.

Dessert of Amedi chocolate torte, new season cherries and crème fraiche rounds the event off with a flourish, though there's a cheese board which really has to be one of the most appealing I have ever seen.

So well done Jamie, and what's next?