First Coast

Neighbourhood restaurants seem to be on the growth these days, very good news too. Even better news when they are categorised as bistros, implying an even greater ease of ambience. In Europe they know all about neighbourhood restaurants, perhaps this is one of the more tangible benefits of EU membership?

In talking to chefs the world over one of the things I want to know is where do they eat on their night off? Their answers are often my next port of call. For an increasing number in Edinburgh the answer is "First Coast". You can quickly tell why after even only a few minutes of talking with the MacRae brothers from Skye, whose gaff this is.

Here are people genuinely interested in genuine food, for whom quality is everything. Combined with an intelligent simplicity of cooking that pays homage to the integrity of the materials, their dishes, which average around £10, possess a quality that is memorable.

Starters of daily changing soup, mussels with coconut and lemon grass broth set a good bistro note, and a ham hough terrine with gruyere cheese and mustard sauce is stiff competition for the devilled mackerel fillet with roast pepper and coriander dressing

A main course of seabream fillet, smoked haddock mussel and baby potato broth encapsulates perfectly the flavours of the sea, or the lamb shank tagine with dates, almonds and lemon cous-cous to waft you back to days in sunny Morocco, or that wonderful recipe you found in Somerset which involved only a little short of physical harm to the reluctant chef.

Whilst Scottish Aberdeen Angus sirloin steak can be found readily enough south of the border, there is something rather extra special about enjoying it in Scotland with the essential chips and a tomato and red onion salad. Casting the net wider the Thai marinated chicken salad with peppers, cucumbers and mango can be relied upon, even with red onion and cherry tomato tart tatin, dressed with feta and rocket, on the same menu.

And so to puddings, an area where the Scots do tend to have to look beyond their borders, hence sticky date and ginger pudding with toffee sauce. Apple and rhubarb oat crumble with vanilla ice cream, however, sounds remarkably like a close approach to a well known Scottish recipe, rather sadly devoid of the vital ingredient of a spot of the national spirit.

In my totally un-humble view the heart of a successful bistro is located in the depths of its wine list, and the First Coast approach to such matters starts with credible house wines from South Africa and Sicily at £9.95. Happily we seem to be past the infancy of boycotting wines on grounds of nationality. I take my hat off to the Chateauneuf du Pape cuvee from Mangouste, accurately annotated as 'immensely powerful yet beautifully balanced' which at £25 a bottle symbolises the quality and value of this short but punchy list.

While the menu prices are always very sensible, value for money is at its best before 6.30 pm Monday to Friday when two courses can be enjoyed for an incredible £10.50, with the same superb deal on offer at lunchtime. You can find out a lot more information - including their latest menus - about First Coast on their Website.