The aim of James Thomson and his team at The Fish Club is very clear - to take the time-honoured dish of fish and chips into the 21st century. So is it goodbye to soggy chips, undistinguished supporting fare and fish that has been out of the sea too long? The answer would appear to be 'yes'. On arrival a wet fish counter confronts you where you might even swear you observed the odd twitch still. Enquiry would almost certainly reveal the origin of its contents, highly likely to be off the Essex coast and a typical day's menu could consist of mackerel, green cod, sea bass tuna, red herring, brill and red mullet. Nor does the batter overcoat reign supreme, you can have your fish as you'd wish it to be cooked; steamed, sautéed or grilled for instance.

They make their own delicious sauces, potted shrimps, fish pies, salads and pickles, and their puddings are of the same high order. For those looking for maritime viagra in the form of oysters, seek no further. You can buy fish and take it away to do as you will, you can eat it cooked to order on the spot, or you can indulge in a glass of wine whilst the you wait for the traditional Scottish "carry-out" to be prepared for you. The place is immaculate.

Fish Club is based on three vital concepts in catering - give the customer what he wants, give it to him fresh, and give him quality ingredients. The restaurant industry is littered with the remains of those who neglect all or some of these matters.