It was once remarked that if you wished to make a steady income without overmuch skill, set up a fish and chip shop. Like many chance remarks it was a false premise, and like any other enterprise, catering or otherwise, it needs skill and commitment.

Both of these have been ingested well into Fish House by Jo Nylander and Gabs Early, formerly of The Approach Tavern in Bethnal Green, who having taken a careful look at the fish and chips option, updated it and are now wowing the inhabitants of South Hackney with their interpretation of our traditional national dish.

Fish and chips plus it may be, easy-going and classless it definitely is, cheap it is not. That is not a complaint, but don't go along expecting normal f 'n' c prices, nor for that matter the newspaper and errant pieces of fish that have a habit of making their well hidden but pungent presence a predominant feature in your car for the next month or so. That said, carry-out is available if you must.

Beneath the baleful gaze of a red octopus from the back wall you can order fish and chips with the traditional mushy peas, or go upmarket and try the salmon fish cakes with poached egg, Hollandaise, soda bread and pickles. A business-like wine list enables a further addition to the normal scope of chippies the world over.

Connoisseurs offer good reports on the chips (fluffy within, firm on the outside) but raise an eyebrow about the spelling of Eaton Mess amongst the puddings. A certain northern nobleman might be less than amused.