Fishermans Return

I often reflect that Norfolk is a veritable gastronome's paradise with more than its fair share of delights for foodies per square mile pro rata than anywhere else in UK, with the exception of our larger cities. This equation is made up of some outstandingly good restaurants, but in the main it contains a large proportion of sound eating places of which Fisherman's Return is but one good example.

Located in a traditional 17th century brick and flint dwelling made up of a row of fisherman's cottages, complete with red pantile roof, the heart lifts on first sighting, and thoughts of a decent pint of Adnams and honest English country cooking quicken the heartbeat. And unlike other mirages, it's all true.

Traditional dishes such as fish pie with cod and prawns in a white sauce, topped off with potato and cheese, or king prawns in ginger and garlic coating, with brown bread and their own seafood dip set the pace, and these are only the starters. It should hardly be necessary to remind oneself that here, seafood is king so keep a weather eye on the specials board with crab, lobster, mussels and a positive cornucopia of fish come and go with the boats and the tides. Leave room for the hot Winterton smoked salmon.

Service is friendly and unpretentious. Your wine will come from a list that is relatively modest and at ease with the surroundings. In winter the wood burners and the sturdy country soups and game dishes restore and comfort, in summer a bottle of well-chilled pinot grigio and a fresh lobster in the shade of a dark green awning can be positively career-threatening. If that does not work try a bottle of the house champagne at a price that will gladden your heart.