In a country with such extensive coastlines it is not altogether surprising that there should be such a national love-fest with the fruits of the sea. The advent of seriously farmed versions, given the demand, is not altogether surprising either, but like most else in life there's no beating the real thing. This Fishers, not to be confused with its sibling up in the financial sector of the city, is appropriately sited on the Leith waterfront within a heaving line's throw of Brittania, at the base of the old Leith signal tower. When the Prime Minister dined at Fishers it still remains unclear as to whom he was trying to send signals.

Fish does not remain simple here as a rule. A salad of seared salmon sashimi, for instance, might emerge with ginger and orange aioli, mizuna leaves and candied chillies.

Nor for that matter do the meat dishes thoughtfully provided for the wilful, also the desserts that could include Turkish delight in brandy. The emphasis is very much on elaboration, always risky, but at Fishers it never seems to fail to work. Service is friendly and competent.