Fishes, The

The Fishes at North Hinksey Village, an outpost of Oxford has always been a great place for a party, but now it has gone a stage further. Global warming, that's what it's all about, with a new terrace, picnic hamper menu and a general move towards their graceful riverside garden, all of which serves to underline the natural louch-ness of an ancient university city that inevitably invades most of its institutions.

The opportunity has also been taken to re-invent the menu and widen the scope for enjoyment in this quintessential English pub and the customers love it.

Talking of which I just love a deli board and at The Fishes theirs excels. Each item is a reasonable £1.50, and includes cheese, cold cuts, fish, pickles and dips and bread. Alternatively let somebody else do the hard work and make a selection for you from the cold cuts board, cheese, fish and mixed favourites, all at £7.50 a board with rustic bread and chutney.

From a range of starters expect to find devilled whitebait, smoked mackerel pate, lobster and crab salad or cold raised chicken and ham pie. Over half the starters are available as main course options, one of which is the Caesar salad made with free range chicken, bacon and anchovies, and subject to a discretionary 25p contribution towards the Jamie O' Healthy Eating in Primary Schools fund. What a novel and good hearted gesture.

Main courses home in unerringly on well-loved favourites such as beef salad with rare roast Aberdeenshire fillet, a rocket salad and horseradish crème fraiche.

Sausages are something of an Oxford institution, so take a careful look at the sausage of the week and mash, a real delight for connoisseurs of the humble banger. Two people will find ample sustenance from a six-rib rack of Cornish lamb with sauté new potatoes and mint Hollandaise. The smoked haddock fishcake comes with tomato butter sauce, the lemon sole done simply with new potatoes, a classic dish.

Puds come in classic form with Knickerbocker Glory, Eton Mess and for the really traditional eater Devils on Horseback sits firmly amongst the likes of Lincolnshire Poacher, Woolsery Goat and Oxford Blue.

In addition to all this largesse The Fishes makes a big occasion of the Sunday roast, so that you can ring up early in the week and book a table for the family roast, one of the best ways of enjoying a family occasion. If that does not appeal, does a Sunday roast picnic hamper hit the button - all you have to do is ask.

Everyday picnic hampers can be made up on the spot and transported out to the site of your choice in the garden.

A well-mannered wine list is a credit to this attractive place.

Their Website is equally praiseworthy, and packed with useful information including seasonal changes of menu.