Food for Friends in Prince Albert Street, part of the Brighton Lanes, is one of the newer restaurants where vegetarianism is no longer a café item, but stands on its own as a sophisticated element of the restaurant world. They have much the same aims as others but go about them in a different way, reflecting a passion for Mediterranean, Middle Eastern and North African cuisines where healthy eating is known to be instrumental in promoting longevity and a better quality of life.

Starters of a Thai sharing platter, or roasted seeds, nuts and olives from Kalamata set the scene, and main courses of wild mushroom rosti, crispy arancini, or sweet potato and coconut curry bring a seasonal whiff of fresh local ingredients. Sticky toffee pudding strays well away from its birthplace at Cartmel, and molten chocolate, described as a pudding with gooey hot chocolate served with Bailey's ice cream is enough to bring any errant vegetarian back to the fold.

Food for Friends now has a takeaway operation, a real sign of the times and success, and finally a sobering thought - some 70% of Food for Friends' customers are not vegetarian. At least some of them must be refugees from the truly awful ways in which other types of restaurants not infrequently serve their vegetables. Good then to see recipes on their Website for turning healthy ingredients into well appreciated dishes.