Jon Kempner (12 November 2004)

Spending a weekend in the Cotswolds, I was delighted to discover Fosse Manor. Having originally popped in for a drink, we looked at the main restaurant menu. Described as "English cooking with a modern twist using locally sourced seasonal produce", Head Chef, Simon Walford and Exec. Chef, Tom Rains have managed to cook up an exciting menu which would be more than at home in many top London restaurants. Needless to say, we decided to stay for dinner.

There is nothing "chintzy" about the hotel - and that is also reflected in both the food and service. We had starters of Roast Vine Tomato Soup with Red Onion Marmalade which was intense with the true flavour of real "home grown" tomatoes. One main course of the most tender slow cooked shoulder of Cotswold lamb with mint accompanied by creamed potato and rosemary jus was "to die for" The other main course of fillet of salmon with spinach, mash potato, baby fennel, tomato and caper dressing was bursting with flavour. Both were cooked to perfection.

I'm afraid that I couldn't muster the appetite for dessert, but my partner had an excellent vanilla mousse with mixed berry compote. It makes such a wonderful change to find an exciting and innovative menu, where service is friendly, efficient but not at all stuffy. Well done Fosse Manor. I highly recommend the restaurant. I will be back soon.