Diversification is the name of the game whether you're in the business of farming or saving souls, so why have a draughty old church standing around doing nothing when it could be turned to better use? The result? A bright, cheerful area offering excellent food every day of the week except Sunday and Monday, until late at night, and devoting all its profits to good works, mainly disadvantaged young people.

Sounds like a great use of resources - you'd be right. The food is consistently good and could include prawn and crab wonton soup, smoked chicken and baby leek terrine with a warm brioche and pear chutney or a crisp omelette salad with shitake mushrooms and baby tomatoes.

Into the main course area and we find grilled swordfish, lime and caper salsa, rocket salad and chips, or a sirloin steak, roast rosemary potatoes, gruyere rarebit and proscuitto chips. The desserts are a delight, not least the lime and chocolate tart supported by a bitter chocolate sorbet. It's the cheeses that are so wicked I'm surprised they dare to offer them in a former church, served with homemade oatcakes and chutney.

All of which confirms my view that had I lived in an age when pilgrims roamed from one religious establishment to another seeking board and lodging I would have written the guidebook, after years of agreeable research. And just in case you're wondering, yes, it is licensed - but no, it's not stored in the crypt. House wine is £14.95 a bottle or £3 a glass, and the list, which includes wildflower wines, goes up to around £25.