After years of close association with The Belmont Restaurant, the good people of Cheltenham have had to reassess their culinary habits, at least in that particular neck of the woods, to make way for the Italian job, in the form of the Brothers Fratelli. Sadly this is at the expense of Mr Fratelli Snr. whose two lovely boys have decided to do their own thing at their unmistakably Neapolitan premises in Winchcombe Street, whilst Pere Fratelli continues to do his in Bristol.

The principal difference is between the traditional pizza and pasta, part of the bulk trade, and the Brother's inclination towards the fine cuisine of Italy. So in their modestly sized restaurant of 35 covers they offer starters of bruschetta of balsamic artichoke, pesto and parmesan, or perhaps green lipped mussels with herb focaccia crust and tomatoes tapenade salad. What really caught my eye, however, was the cappuccino of langoustine veloute with chervil tagliatelle.

Main courses do more than tip their hat to the seafood enthusiasts and we have roast salmon with pesto and herb asparagus veloute competing with, amongst other dishes, a whole lemon sole baked with pine nuts and parsley. But pan fried duck breast with roasted almonds, figs and Ameretto glaze does the trick for many, a wonderful compilation of flavours indeed.

Down amongst the pudding department lurk the more traditional desserts for which the Italians are so famous, but again the clear winner was the cherry soup with caramel balsamic ice cream. All of this comes at incredibly good value for money and accompanied by an unarguably Italian wine list of real character, from a menu that changes weekly.

Fratelli deserves to succeed.