Freemason's Arms

The gastronomic haven that has always been known to insiders has, in recent years, become much better known, which is good news for them if not for the rest of us struggling to find reservations. In part this revelation has come about as a result of the arrival of the gastropub, a generic term that has a wide interpretation.

Recently (2005) Ian Martin has taken over The Freemason's Arms, a modest Lancashire pub that he has transformed into a modest Lancashire pub with a reputation for fine dining and good wine, all without pomp and splendour, but a growing reputation that places it on my one-to-watch list.

When you manage to drag yourself away from the bar that is made for action, into the no-frills dining room, though you can stay in the bar if you wish, expect to find starters like seared scallops with asparagus and chicken liver pate with Theakstons and apple chutney, and mains of seabass with oyster fritter, tomato and coriander sauce, or cornfed chicken with Burgos famous black pudding, girolle mushrooms and cream sauce.

Whatever the dish rest assured it will be made to order. Ian Martin is a wine buff of no small order, and offers a list of over 500 bins, sorted out into the blackboard, a wine list, the fine wine list, or a private consultation with himself about the contents of his cellar containing the fruits of many years of astute collecting.