Of the various places at which to eat in this well-known golfing hotel, the French Restaurant, overlooking the famous Brabazon golf course, is the top bidder, though the twist is more modern European with French trimmings than the name might suggest.

It is not uncommon to find good hotels with a major commitment to a supporting activity that tend to neglect the food, but that is certainly not the case here. Classic dishes are blended with old favorites and thoroughly contemporary ones to produce menus that are a credit to the head chef and his team.

Try the seared scallops, fennel purée, and toasted almond salad and crispy duck spring rolls, coriander salad, honey and soy dressing, before moving on to monkfish wrapped in Parma ham, feve bean risotto, chorizo sauce and pan seared salmon, olive crushed potatoes, wilted spinach, olive tapenade dressing. End the meal with a dark chocolate tart, cherry purée and dark chocolate sorbet.