A great example here of somebody who, tiring of the uncertainties of farming, have changed their whole way of life and become a countryside leisure centre in an area where natural beauty is sometimes taken for granted. Central to the whole operation is The Friar's Head, carved out of old farm cottages, with a magnificent set of cloisters full of exotic plants and vines, which is where you eat, in what is effectively a garden room.

Wherever possible the ingredients are locally sourced, and the neighbouring butchers and estates are main suppliers. There is a tendency towards vegetarianism on the starters which could include seared scallops with spaghetti and saffron cream sauce, or a Greek village salad.

Main courses are well supported by fish from Hartlepool, perhaps a whole lemon sole with lemon butter and herb sauce, medallions of venison with spiced pancetta and a sloe gin and redcurrant sauce, or chicken madras with tiger tail prawns. A classic finish with Seville orange tart and marmalade ice cream rounds off the evening in style. Expect to find the local Wensleydale cheese in first class condition.

The wine list is manageable, the local ales are in great shape with Black Sheep well to the fore, and service passes muster.