Galvin at Windows

The 28th - and top - floor of the Hilton, formerly Windows on the World, has just undergone a major refit, resulting in a restaurant with stunning views over London. Normally it's only the chosen few who get the table with a view in such places, but not here, where the centre of the restaurant has been raised to give those on the inner tables a share of the scenery as well.

Whatever may be said about restaurants with views, roughly in keeping with paintings that have wonderful frames, can largely be ignored here, for what emerges just as strongly as distant views of parts of London you never knew about is the very recognisable food drummed up by Chris Galvin and André Garret, a formidable team indeed. The style is very much modern French; expect to find starters of roast Scottish langoustine, poached asparagus with Hollandaise, and bisque of lobster.

A fillet of Guernsey sea bass with fennel, Jerusalem artichoke and fumet of pinot noir is one of the high spots of the menu; assiette of lamb turns out to be a composition of saddle, sweetbreads, tongue, accompanied by a slice of breast and a cutlet dipped in egg and breadcrumbs, then fried, called an épigramme, and not to be confused with a short, witty comment.

An elegant conclusion to such a thoroughly genuine and satisfying spread, in the form of a Valrhona palet d'or with white chocolate ice cream and raspberries, could hardly be bettered. Plenty of wines by the glass, and a range of certainly not under-priced wines on the list. It is a great joy to see this wonderful space regaining its sparkle and verve.