The 28th - and top - floor of the Hilton, Galvin at Windows Restaurant and Bar is now featured in the Michelin Guide and continues to be one of the most talked about restaurants in London. With stunning views over London, normally it's only the chosen few who get the table with a view in such places, but not here, where the centre of the restaurant has been raised to give those on the inner tables a share of the scenery as well.

Whatever may be said about restaurants with views, roughly in keeping with paintings that have wonderful frames, can largely be ignored here, for what emerges just as strongly as distant views of parts of London you never knew about is the very recognisable food drummed up by Chris Galvin and André Garret, a formidable team indeed. The style is very much modern French; expect to find starters of smoked potato velouté and duxelle of ceps, and mackerel tartar, rillette of mackerel, tomato jelly and avruga.

A fillet of sea bream with ragoût of haricot Blanc and Morteau sausage, baby artichoke and bordelaise shallots is one of the high spots of the menu. An elegant conclusion to such a thoroughly genuine and satisfying spread, in the form of greengage clafoutis and marzipan ice cream could hardly be bettered.