Every so often the choppy waters of London's restaurant world are stirred into something more boat rocking by an event or real significance. This time it's waves emanating from the Wolseley/Orrery ocean.

After two years at Wolseley, and formerly of Orrery, executive chef Chris Galvin has moved on to set up with his younger brother Jeff, also no slouch in the business of providing food (L'Escargot) that people really enjoy eating, to put it at its simplest.

Their modus operandi is to create a terribly up-market bistro, certainly not the sort of varyingly louche operation that many associate with the word. The result is very good on first showing (10/05), and long may it last. Baker Street may not be the hub of the culinary London scene, and it's too late for Sherlock Holmes, but there seems no earthly reason why Galvin should not become a major fixture, with its brasserie-designed air of permanence.

The blessedly succinct menu offers such delights as a half dozen de claire oysters, or a lasagne of Dorset crab with a velouté of girolles, going on to parmentier of oxtail and black pudding, served on mash.

The wine list, with a heavy inclination to the best of France, comes at prices that are reflected through the food and are, frankly, quite stunning. Galvin has all the attributes of a winner, no pun intended.