Gastro is situated very conveniently opposite the Clapham Picture house. With its red neon "restaurant" sign glowing in the darkness it is reminiscent of classical Parisian eateries from the outside. Going inside cannot disappoint any self respecting francophile gourmet: both its menu and wine list are as authentic as you can get outside France to that unique and quintessentially gallic dining experience.

The first clue of what is to come is the mandatory provision of fresh bread and unsalted butter; something of a rarity in all but the pricier restaurants. The staff also happen to contribute to the illusion of stepping momentarily across the channel as they appear to be uniformly recruited on the basis of French ethnicity. Not only does this add authenticity, it enforces the impression that it takes someone of continental upbringing to show passion for food even when their only role is to serve and take care of visiting diners.

The average cost for a two course meal for two is around £50 including

rather nice wine.

Reviewed by Tom Coady.