Gregg's Restaurant has been up and running since 2000, though the building itself dates back to the 16th century. An inspiring team under Gavin and Lucinda Gregg offer a traditional cuisine with just a frisson of international influence. Behind a traditional shop frontage has been created a charming restaurant, a positive invitation to relax and enjoy what fortune brings. And what it brings on the weekday a la carte is starters of, say, seafood terrine in saffron jelly, wrapped in smoked salmon with saffron mayonnaise, or perhaps slow roasted pork belly with a pickled fennel salad and fennel puree.

Main courses are instantly recognizable but stop short of earning that slightly dubious phrase of 'comfort food', however well meant. This may be food that comforts but it also is of a standard that demands attention. For proof of this keep an eye lifted for the grilled lamb cutlet with slow braised lamb stew and herb dumpling, confit of lamb shoulder, braised potato and carrot and swede puree. The continents are nicely bridged with a baked supreme of halibut on braised bok choi with crab, a potato and coriander cake and lemon grass sauce.

Puddings feature well, with a clever apple assiette, a mini apple crumble, light apple mousse on shortbread and an apple and cider sorbet. For Friday and Saturday evenings the menu stays broadly the same with a slightly smaller sauce, but you'd need to be very observant to notice. Sunday lunch is celebrated in great style with the traditional roast, and a supporting cast of options that seem calculated to accommodate all tastes.

Nine wines by the glass, including champagne, is a kindness to drivers and those who like changes of taste without the bottle problem. Bottle prices tend to hover round the £20 mark, leaving room for special celebrators to explore the higher altitudes. The list represents excellent value. A recent development has been the creation of a well-appointed dining/conference room on the first floor for up to 30 guests.