Gavroche, Le

Gurmit (29 October 2005)

Plush kitsch is how it was described in the Sunday times Style magazine recently, and this is spot on…garish gold lobsters and crabs adorning tables, gold plates with pictures of the chef, flower displays you would expect to be chosen by your grandparents, and it goes on. So, if you are looking for full on traditional or even old-fashioned French flair, you won’t be disappointed. I don’t however believe you would even find a place like this in France, where most establishments of this calibre today tend to be flashed out in very contemporary glitz or minimalist designs.

My husband and I both ordered the ‘menu dégustation’ which entailed multiple courses with very original “wines to match”. The focus at Le Gavroche is on the food and less on aesthetics, as much like the décor, the ingredients were classic French and stylishly but simply presented: Coquille Saint Jacques, foie gras, salmon, asparagus, lamb, chocolate (not all at once!). Flavours were subtle, married perfectly with the selected wines but held no surprises. The only dish we both disliked was the lamb chop, which was disappointingly small, not very well cooked and alongside it came a lamb kebab with decidedly questionable odours and unpleasant flavours. Come to think of it, this was the only slightly adventurous dish on the menu and it was categorically bad. Conclusion, Monsieur Roux should stick to what he knows best, good honest, traditional French classics.

Although the meal overall was exquisite, with exemplary service from the French speaking staff who were on hand at all times but never overbearing, we were not completely convinced by the( I believe three) Michelin stars awarded to this establishment. Our conclusion at the end of the evening was that it is over priced, but we had a memorable night all the same.

Restaurant going being a hobby and having lived in France for many years, the real thing in the real place is truly unbeatable. I would recommend Troisgros as a far better alter

Mark Jones (21 January 2005)

I am always pleased to dine out in lavish restaurants especially when someone else is paying ! 5 of us enjoyed dinner at Le Gavroche, service and food was excellent. I was a little surprised by the intimacy of the subterranean restaurant, but it was night time so I suppose the absence of natural light should not have obscured the experience. I think the ambience is more akin to that of a gentlemen’s club dining room where ladies have recently been admitted.

The cuisine is classical French; I had the foie gras followed by Angus beef with Soufflé Rothschild to finish. All courses were outstanding, however the cost of our meal came to about £650 which included two bottles of house red table wine and two drinks each before the meal. Excellent food but relatively poor value for money (even when someone else is paying!).

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